Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Palomar Boulders V3

This is a short video I made from a 30 min. session at Palomar Boulders. There are 3 climbable boulders there that provide a few climbs on each. This one I do in the video is my favorite. It's a sit start with feet on the base of the rock and hands on a chest high rail. The next move is a left hand to a good crimp. Third move is right hand to a really sharp micro crimp. Fourth move is a quick bump out of the bad crimp to a slopy crimp at chest level. The next move is a very dynamic reach to a 2 finger pocket. It's the crux and my favorite move by far. You have to stay very close to the rock, as it is easy to come off the bad right sloper if you make any aggressive movements. Once you get the two finger pocket you are golden and off to jug city the rest of the way up.

If you watch the video and take note of the beta, you will see yourself flashing this climb very soon. Wish you the best of luck and stay safe!!

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Taming the Cougar

A few months back we found an awesome crag just down the street from our house (Cougar Crag). My wife, friends, and I have put in hours out there. Blazing a trail was the first of many task we had to accomplish. Once we found our way around, setting up anchors was next. We found a few good bolts and a few rusty ones. Chalking up the holds was goal three. Setting foot on a route that hadn't been climbed in months or maybe a year was cool, but challenging.

This is my wife Jenny on the Cougar face. It is a mix of 5.10 variations and comprised of thin feet and small crimps. Tons of fun and my first outdoor 5.10 onsight.

This is an awesome boulder that I sent a few months ago. Its a pretty fun project. Few of the crew are getting close. Taylor Sather has the second ascent. We believe it's a v4.