Pipe Dream from John Daniels on Vimeo.
This wave was one that stuck, not for a week or a month, but for years. I still remember it play by play in my mind like it happen yesterday. If you've surfed Pipeline, you've experienced a emotional roller coaster. One minute you're battling it out with a hundred guys trying to catch the next wave. The next minute you're going over the falls hoping your not going to break your neck. Sure enough, your alive, in one piece paddling out for more, but this next attempt is going to be a bit different then the last. The sight of the next set sends chills down your spine. Your heart is pounding, head is down and your committed to catching that wave. Next thing you know, your in it and ready for your quick-tight bottom turn into the barrel. Once you make the barrel you have to hold a straight line for the light at the end of the tunnel. When the light gets brighter and you come flying out with the spray on your back, it's that moment that sticks. That is why I surf. For that moment in time that is set apart from all the rest.
I love your love of life. It's as much a gift as your terrific physical prowess and your writing ability. If that seems over the top - it's a Nana's prerogative! Thanks for the heads up. Love you!ReplyDelete
I get that feeling when I actually pull off the drop at the wedge...and I don't mean THAT Wedge!!! Nice barrel John!ReplyDelete